How a Nebraskan gets to the top of a 10d desert cr...
Description
Refer to description for Hot Toddy for general location info. Route begins immediately right of Hot Toddy atop a large block. Crux is right off the deck in tricky but easily-protected finger crack. Continue up the splitter with perfect hands. Joins Hot Toddy for final 10'. Rap 80' to ground.
Protection
Standard desert rack with triples in the hand-size and a large piece for the final wide section. Fixed anchor (same anchor as Hot Toddy).
Don't forget to turn around and look down the canyon. Incredible!!!!
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Dec 1, 2003 rating: 5.10d
Wow, what a cool route.As said, the crux is right off of the deck, but fingercrack??? Those bratworst you call fingers must be huge!!! I had my hands 1/2 into the thing. YMMV. THe crux can go with a slight highball to a single piece, then a move to a good jam (only small handed-people need apply here) where-upon you can get another piece and then cruse the left-leaning splitter. What a nice route!
A beautiful line one of the best in the moab area.A thin beging but nothing to worry about and after that it is smoth cruzen with beautiful hands.A defeinant must do if your in the area and the veiw is priceless.
Maverick Buttress
RSS Feed
