This is one of the best cracks anywhere in the desert. 150 feet of perfect hands to a thin crux just below the anchor. The route is long and sustained but there is a perfect rest below the crux moves. This is a good lead for those looking to break into 5.11 desert routes.
Gunsmoke is obvious from the parking area, it is the furthest left of three cracks on the broad face at the top of the hill. Start atop a ledge about 10 feet off the ground. Jam up and left in a good hand crack then move straight up following the crack which thins slightly (#1 Camalots). Continue in perfect hands for about 100 feet to a rest just below the crux. Plug in a couple of small cams (0.75 and 0.5) and fire through the bulge with good finger locks to a three bolt anchor.
Rap with two ropes.
Protection
#0.5 to 3 Camalots, extra #1s and many #2s #0.75 for the crux.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Dec 1, 2003 rating: 5.10c
A really great route with a little of everything. The route can be done lead and lower or rap with a single 70M rope.Pretty easy for the given grade of 11a, but maybe my small fingers reduced the apparent grade of the small crack up top.
2.5 Friends work very well on much of this route. Most of the 1 BDs are baggy and I only placed one. A better rack would have a few 2.5 WCs and 2 BDs in addition to several 3 WCs, (2 or 3) 3.5 WCs and the aforementioned smaller stuff for the top.
There is a direct start that makes the route much better and a real 11a. Doing the regular start this would be my recomedation for someones first "11a" onsight. For the direct start bring a few 1,2& 3 tcus.One 70m gets you up and down.A. Everhart
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Oct 17, 2005 rating: 5.10c
Great route. Mostly good hands, but the first third was bigger than I thought. Definitely bring a handful of #3 Camalots. The top crux seemed WAY soft for a desert 5.11. Just a few layback moves between good feet and your done. The hard part is just endurance.
Another steller line at the beautiful maveric buttress. Fun and long makes this route one of the have to do's in this area a 70 meter rope works well on this route withe plenty of 2's and 3's for gear .5 and .75 for the top work well.
Maverick Buttress
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