[Nina]: A quality route, well worth the short hike...
Description
The Shipyard is a good crag near the entrance of Long Canyon. The area consists of a number of fine crack lines in the 5.10-5.12 range on excellent Wingate sandstone. This crag sits at the north end of a steep draw, the first side canyon on the right, and receives direct sunshine for most of the day. This is not a good option on hot days. The cliffs in this area are over 400' tall but currently very few routes exceed one pitch in length. Most routes have sandstone plaques at the base. Good routes include: Nina 10d, Electronic Battleship 10c, and Proudest Monkey 3-pitch 12b.
Getting There
Drive West up Long Canyon Road from Potash Road. Park at a pullout at the first campsite on the right side of the road. Hike past the campsite and continue up the sandy draw on a faint cairn marked path. Cut northeast out of the draw when it steepens, and follow a scree slope to the base of the cliff. Walk north to locate the routes.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Shipyard:
The Route "Torpedo Bay", not listed on this site currently, is a hard finger and stacks route just right of Nina- maybe 50' tall. It is rated 12 something. This past weekend (Sunday) I pulled off the only good hold on the route- a tall spike of rock that served as a midpoint rest for the stacks to the finish. The rock I pulled off was about 6 inches thick, 3 feet tall and 1 foot wide. I thought I had ruined the route. However, it is clear this has happened in the past on this route. Discoloration is evident above the new scar indicating that at another time, 3 more feet had come off.
Currently, there is a good new edge where the bottom of the lost flake had been. Tiny mono finger jams exist to get past the scar and up to the finger stack section- 1 or 2 moves away. Small nuts are recommended to protect these tiny pods.
I am very sorry for altering this most excellent route. It did rain on Thursday, and I climbed Torpedo Bay on Sunday. Does anyone believe this is a contributing factor to the hold failing? Or, was this flexy spike a ticking timebomb waiting for a climber to overzealously pull it off?
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