Five O'Clock 

FA:  Sam Lightner, September 2007 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad, Aid Consensus:  5.9 A2 [details] Length:  2 pitches, 270 feet, Grade III Season:  Summer Views: 47 page views Submitted By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Dec 2, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

P1 climb a deterioriating crack to a double bolt anchor. The crux is high and requires some Peckers. 80 feet.
P2 free clmb the corner with loose rock but really fun climbing. At the ledge slip back into the aiders and pull on a bolt, then a few aid moves, then two more bolts to get past the giant detached flake. A few more Lost Arrow placements and you hit the roof. Climb over it and follow the crack on mid size cams. Its probably possible to climb the corner, but its mankier rock. Eventually pull out of the aiders and free climb (5.9) the wider crack on soft holds. Pull over the lip and clip the anchor. The pitch is a rope stretcher, like 190 feet.
Rap the route… watch the ends.

Location 

North Face splitter

Protection 

I had 4 X everything to friends 3.5 and wanted more in the small to mid. You need some Lost Arrows and blades, plus a #6 is helpful up high.