BETA PHOTO: From the belay on Crack 1, Ice Cream Parlor - craz...
Description
From the top of the climber's trail, turn left (N) and walk about 100 feet to a large belay area with comfortable rocks under the low-angle varnished slabs. The first of a group of 3 cracks breaking the slab is Crack 1. The first 30' are easy and blocky and then the fun begins with a thin fractured crack leading the entire way to the anchors. A crux involves trusting a very small wire and trusting your fingers, not your feet - they don't stick to desert varnish!
Excellent easier route in the area. This is the easiest and safest route by which to set up TRs of Cracks 2 and 3 (to the left). Rap or lower 75'.
Crack 1 is also the first pitch of Wolverine (5.11) that continues up the vertical wall above and right of the Crack 1 anchors. The dihedral straight up (just left) is unknown as of this report.
Protection
Small gear to a #1 camalot and a couple of small wires (#2 RP works nicely). Two-bolt anchor on top.
By Shane Zentner From: Colorado Mar 16, 2004 rating: 5.8-
Fun with small gear for the crack. A nice way to start or end the day in a spectacular setting. We were here after climbing at Wall Street all day and enjoyed the cool evening and light at 5:00.
This was a fun, short route. For me, as an intermediate climber, it was a good route to increase my foot placement skills and increase my trust in my feet. When you get to the crack with the varnish, you can concentrate on placing your feet on small features and use the crack for balancing hand placements. This would also be a great warm-up route.
If I remember correctly this crack had a few thin moves with little to jam, protect or toe cam about half way up for those with larger fingers/feet. not R but I couldn't plug a piece in near this section.
Ice Cream Parlor
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