The Kind (the other kind) 

We were fortunate to be turned on to this excellent climb by the first ascentionist himself, Kyle Copeland....May 1995. Kyle was in "classic" Kyle-like form;....at his house, he threw his climbing gear into his pack, and for lunch, he threw in (on top of the climbing gear), a pack of smokes and a couple of chocolate donuts (unwrapped and mixed in with the climbing gear...)......amazing individual! He took us up the beautiful maze-like twisting canyon, and took us right to this very attractive corner. I lead the climb and I found it excellent and wonderful. In my notes , I have it as 5.10b. We also did a climb to it's left called Archaic Revival (5.11-) where you climb up a large log to get to a crack system!......we had a fantastic day; I have had many fantastic days and adventures with Kyle;....he's a really good guy and has been a very good friend to me. Our group that day was Kyle, Margie Floyd, Dave Evans, Dana Adler, Greg Epperson, Cyndie Bransford, and myself. If you haven't done this climb; go do it....it's a beautiful climb in a wonderful secluded magical place, and the climb eats up cams......it's very striking, and easy to find, even without Kyle as a guide!

We hiked to this route on a rest day. I'm sure we found it as well as Archaic Revival. But, I'm confused by the photo. Both routes are right facing dihedrals. Yet, your photo shows a left facing dihedral. Did the photo get inverted somehow?

If there is water in the creek just plan on getting wet and stay in the creek for the entire approach as we did. It is a much better option than bushwhacking.

Sad to see so much broken glass at the route.

Sorry, but I did invert this photo;.......I tried to switch it correctly, but was unsuccessful;.....sorry;......thanks for correcting this information;....it's difficult to remember all these climbs and which way they face.......