This route starts on a clean 5.6-ish splitter to the right of Ice Cream Parlor about 75 feet. Climb up the fist/hand crack to a stance. Clip the bolt and make some dirty balancey moves using the faux dihedral and edges. Pass one more bolt to a nice ledge and half of an anchor. I ran out of bolts but there is a 4" empty hole next to the existing bolt (which is a 4" rawl).
Please chop me and remove my bad anchor.
Location
This is on the far right of the Ice Cream Parlor, about 75 feet passed the Ice Cream Parlor route on the east side of the boulder.
Protection
Up to #3 camalot for the bottom, QD's for the remainder. 4" bolt for anchor
I could not see anybody climbing up that crumbling corner at the top of the hand crack without gear (i.e. bolts). There were multiple choss bombs that needed to be cleared as well for progress, if somebody climbed above that handcrack they can tip-toe like a ballerina. At the anchor there was a old dead twig with webbing wrapped around it growing out of the crack. I assumed that the wide low angle crack that led to the same place was were the webbing came from.
I am more than willing to pull and patch. Sorry in advance.
The splitter part is really good. The top part is plain scary. I got a halfway decent nut in between the bolts but broke every other hold I touched, munched on enough sand to crap out a small beach the next morning, and was convinced I would detach a massive block and kill my belayer. 2 stars for the first 35' (too bad it's so short), 2 bombs for the rest. As TP puts it, "tip-toe like a ballerina" or wait a couple centuries for the upper half to clean up.
This may be a route called Deathtrap 5.8 done many years ago. Next time I'm there I'll try to confirm but you may be able to yourself. edit: not deathtrap.
Well I had the guidebook in my hot little hand the day I was down there. We all were pretty sure Death Route started to the left.
Boissal that top is a bit loose! I didn't shit out any sand cakes though. It IS to bad that bottom doesn't go for miles...
edited: I can see what Greg is talking about. I checked Bjornstands book (I had the other one), it does look quite close. But the route description sounds wrong. It sounds like Tom Gilje might need to confirm.
Climbed this one on Fri. This is one of the only routes that I would not do a second time... for several reason. Very poor rock (which doesn't bother me that much) and a poorly placed first bolt, and a poor anchor at the top. Not a new route to boot.
Too bad you didn't read the route description before launching off. As I clearly stated the rap needed a bolt. You probably should have rapped the way off as the FA team did. Which way was that? Oh well, just a chossy route in a crappy venue, feel free to eradicate the line. My apologizes.
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