Tyson Arp halfway up Crack One. Photo by Chris Mo...
Description
Incredible climbing on varnished Wingate. Good moderate-to-hard cracks and some slabs cut by thin cracks make up the main area, and several routes have second (and third) pitches up harder, more vertical cracks to anchors obvious from below. Have a go at them if you're looking for something out of the ordinary.
The crag is west-facing and very warm in the summer and fall afternoons; it doesn't receive sun until about noon, so if the air's warm climb in the mornings!
Update* Tyson Arp writes:
It should be pointed out that in the Eric Bjornstad guidebook, cracks one through three are labled from left to right. The climbing Utah guidebook lables them from right to left as they have been presented on Climbingmoab.com.
Getting There
From the cattle guard drive about 3.6 miles (YMMV) down into the canyon. The potable natural spring is at 2.2 miles, so check your milage here and extrapolate for your odometer. Look for a prominent right-leaning arch/dihedral above the road on your left and a descent ramp to a primitive camp area with 4 or so sites on the right; park in the primitive area. The 30m trail up to the base of the crag proper is quite obvious, about 30' north of the camping area ramp.
When you park and look at the Ice Cream Parlor this is the snazzy looking crack on the right side of the crag. Take the path that leads to the right and onto a large ledge. This crack is a really beefy flake in a very open book. The start is spicy then you break into 50ft of perfect yellow tcus, a bulge where the crack widens and flares then to the bolt anchor. Total desert style, stem on the smears, crank the fingers, fire the cams and get m...[more]
Saw the area 05/22/04. There are actually many more routes in the Ice Cream Parlor that have not made this site yet. A friendly group we met up there pointed out a 5.6 trad route to anchors, another 5.7 trad route to anchors, and we saw anchors for about three other routes that aren't in any guide books yet. I don't know any names or any other info on the newer routes... sorry. Though, we could have done more climbing if we had bigger cams... bring a big rack with big pro for some of the routes that are not on this site yet. Great area!
Climbed around here for the first time last week. Good fun. A few bolted routes (not in guide) around the 3-crack area. They appeared to be around 5.8/5.9's and a 5.10 far right. We climbed a crack just right of Knee Grinder (I think). The route went: up an "easy" water groove, through a dirty BD#4 bulge, thin fingers corner (i.e. hard to protect), right around a roof, up to some anchor/slings. The Bjornstad guide misrepresents this line (i.e. lists it twice differently). Anyone know what it is??
The Ice Cream Parlor is a great area for climbers that want a relaxed atmosphere. Great for families because it has climbs for all abilities (5.6 - 5.11). Good top anchors make setting top ropes a breeze.
nice south facing wall with some good variety in routes. looks like they closed off the camping area for parking (or maybe due to jeep safari that was going on)? wide spot in the road still fits a few cars. Perfect setting for a relaxed afternoon at the crag.
Here is a guide to put the routes in order from left to right. (updated 11/06/08)
Starting from the lower left: Pandemic 5.10+, Kura Burnan 5.12, Rattler 5.11.
Up the hill approx 50 feet/30 feet down and left from slabs: Unkown 8 (left slanting finger crack).
At the left side of slabs: 5.6 Corner, 5.10TR, Parlor Game 5.9 bolts. Unkown 5.7 bolts.
Right of gully: Black Slab 5.6 Bolts (2 different starts), Slab 5.7 bolts, Crack 3 5.8TR, Crack 2 5.8R or TR, Crack 1 (aka Wolverine) 5.8, Hot Carl Sunday 10b/c bolts, RP City 10b, same start as RP City is Vanilla Cream 10a mixed.
Just right of the slabs: traverse right on ledge to Freezer Burn and Unkown 10a with one bolt at start then moves right into corner/crack system (listed as RP City in Rock Climbing Utah).
A hundred yards right get on ledge and traverse left to: A Good Day to Die 5.9, Ice Cream Parlor Crack 5.11b, Pulp Friction 5.11, The Coffin 5.9, The Possessed 5.11c bolts, Knee Grinder 5.9+ (right of and behind Possessed with same anchor).
Right of Knee Grinder (not 100% sure of the following. they all exist but not sure of order): Deathtrap 5.8, T-Rex II/11c/4 pitches, Patience First Rodeo 5.9-.
Ice Cream Parlor
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