I'm not sure of the direction (ie east, south) the route faces, only that it faces away from the road. So when you see it from the road driving in, the route is on the backside. It gets morning sun, so you don't have to wait in the winter to get on it.
The route is basically a bolt-ladder of six bolts, with a couple 5.8 moves required to reach the first bolt, and to move from the last bolt to the summit. It's very easy, and the bolts are solid. When we did it, we actually drove the truck right under the route and stood on the roof to reach the first bolt (very lazy, indeed).
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Sep 24, 2002
According to the Bjornstad guide this goes free at 5.8 - though I have no idea how that is possible as it looks more like hard 5.12. There are a few empty bolt holes leading to the first bolt. You'll either need a really long cheater stick or will have to stand on the roof of a truck to clip the first bolt.
There is also an incredibly long reach between the last two bolts. If you don't want to bring a cheater stick, there is a hook placement that looks a little enhanced that would work.
The route is pretty loose in the middle, I parked right under the route so I could clip the first bolt, bad idea. When I was bringing up my 2nd I could hear rocks hitting my hood.
As of March 2007 the bolts are still good and there are several cheater "stick" options for the first clip scattered around the base, courtesy of the old uranium mine up the hill. The thing is precarious but rest assured that it can at least withstand the burden of 3 dudes, a 12-pack and a stout wind.
By TuFF GonG From: gunnison Colorado Sep 12, 2007 rating: 5.11d A0+
Free climbing to the first bolt is hard but possible (crash pad and a spot might be a good idea). The bolts after that are a little spaced but I aided it easily with no aiders. If you free climb to the first bolt it is most definitely not 5.8
the first clip is a pain in the ass to get. brought a stick clip for that one. hangers are 1/4 inch chain. 4th clip is reachy, last clip is reachy. used a stiff draw. last move is committing in approach shoes... i was soloing, simple with sticky rubber shoes. top anchor is 1 single 1/2 inch coldshut. pretty sick fun. yellow alien would make the last move aid instead of free. can't really see a way to climb to the first bolt, again "without a spotter and crash pad."
there are two bolts on the west side to use for rappel as well.
Happy Turk Hoodoo (aka The Devil's Golfball)
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