Brad getting ready for the pillar and horizontal f...
Description
Feeding the Rat is located on the southwest prow of the tower. It is on the edge you seen from the parking lot.
Pitch 0- Scramble up to a large ledge on the shoulder of the tower.
Pitch 1- Climb a pillar-like (very soft) formation 20 feet to an obvious horizontal crack. Traverse out crack left to an uncomfortable natural belay below small crack. 5.7 C1+ 40 feet
Pitch 2- Aid up tiny blue and black alien crack straight off belay. Follow this crack for 30 feet to pins and bolts. Follow bolts and studs with occasional placement to bolted belay on a decent ledge. C2 100 feet
Pitch 3- Aid up more bolts and free climb up staircases to the summit. Belay of a bush. 5.5 C1 60 feet
Descent- Pray, if you think it'll help. Rappel from small bush off the east side of the tower. Seriously, this bush is scary. We backed up the one half others had used to the other small half. A single bolt would inspire much more confidence. You will need double 60s as these just get you to the ground. Also, pulling the ropes was really hard so get the note well over the edge.
Location
Continue on the road, which turns to cattle trails, from the parking lot. Feeding the Rat is on the edge of the tower facing the parking lot.
Protection
Triples in black and blue aliens. Doubles from yellow alien to #2 camalot. 1 Set stoppers. At least 4 butterfly hangers were nice to have. Additional 6+ free biners or draws for lots of pins/bolts.
Joe Wilson Canyon
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