Looking down Shafer Canyon at Bird's View Butte an...
Description
Tucked away on the northeast edge of Canyonlands National Park, this collection of spires, buttes and rimrock is somewhat off the beaten path. If you’re looking for some adventurous climbing though, this place is worth a visit.
The obvious objectives here are Bird’s View Butte and its semi-detached Satellite Spire, or the Crow’s Head Spires which are known individually as Don Juan and Luminous Being spires. Several routes have also been established on the 400 ft Rim Wall which must be rappelled to reach the base of the routes. Of course this also means that if you don’t climb a rim route back out, you have a 400 foot jug at the end of your day.
If you plan to jug back out you will need two ropes for fixing. We fixed one rope from the rim down into the chimney and the second rope from there to the next anchor and from that anchor to the ground. I was happy to have a helmet for the jug back to the rim.
The Wingate in this area is often of excellent but loose rock is encountered at some point on most routes. Bring and knife and some replacement webbing for the anchors.
Getting There
From Moab, take 191 north out of town to its junction with 313. Follow 313 to the turnoff for Dead Horse Point State Park but do not turn. Continue straight on Island in the Sky road for just over a mile and turn left on a dirt road that heads out across the mesa. Once on the dirt road, continue for just over 2 miles to a fork in the road. Take the right fork and continue for another 2 miles to the end of the road. The road gets rough near the end but it’s a short hike to the edge of the mesa.
Finding the anchors to rappel from the rim can be tricky and involves some exposed scrambling. Basically you are aiming for the point on the rim that is closest to the Crow’s Head Spires. When you’re getting close you will have to chimney down behind a giant boulder and work down and around to the left on a ledge system always trying to get to the point closest to the spires. The anchor itself is on a vertical surface and will likely require some searching. Be careful!
Add PhotoPhotos of Bird's View Butte / Crow's Head Spires
BETA PHOTO: Looking back at the Rim Wall from the summit of Do...
BETA PHOTO: The anchor for the first rappel from the rim is on...
Early start for Don Juan and Luminous Being. A fe...
Look for Chip and Dale in the background.
A little farther left. What a beautiful morning!
Marvin and Greg scoping Bird's Heads Spires - snow...
Crow's Heads from the rap route
Jason and Jonathan on the third pitch of a new rou...
Add CommentComments on Bird's View Butte / Crow's Head Spires
By Allen Hill From: Glenelk, Colorado May 29, 2008
There is a way to get in without the rappels and long jug out. It's been years but one can access the spire fairly easily via Shafer Canyon. There use to be a great camp site in the mouth of the canyon but the bearded Toyota truck fanatic desert sage Pete G. recently told me it's been blocked off and is way off limits. Look at the topo and you'll see it's a fairly obvious approach.
Allen's right, there must be a practical approach from the Potash/white Rim/Shafer Trail area. The first ascent of the spire was done before the rap route was in. We put the rap in and were pretty surprised to find we'd been scooped on the FA... We were very motivated to complete the jugs by the strategically placed beverage cooler.
By Allen Hill From: Glenelk, Colorado May 30, 2008
I sure remember Steve, Jeff, and Robert coming back from that block break at CC after they climbed the thing! They where so excited. The rest of us had just wasted the four days out at Indian Creek with the crowds (maybe six people!)
Nice to see you posting Bryan. I have some great old slides of you from the Valley in 1981. How's Jay?
Bird's View Butte / Crow's Head Spires
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