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Luminous Being
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Lizard Action 

Lizard Action 

5.10+

   

FA: Robert Warren, Steve Wood, and Jeff Web, Spring 1983
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10+ [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 250 feet, Grade III
Views: 155 page views

Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Oct 7, 2007


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The black line is pitch 2. The X's are drilled pi...


Description 

Pitch 1:
We climbed up the first pitch of Crow's Beak. Starting on the northwest side of the tower locate a large chimney, climb cracks inside the chimney and loose rock to the ledge where the black line starts in the photograph.
-There are other variations to this first pitch, you can climb up the north face to the ledge, or climb just north of the northern prow to the ledge. Whatever looks good to you just get to were the black line starts. 5.10, 120'.

Pitch 2:
Follow cracks up and left to loose rock and a small roof. By pass roof and follow the crack to a small ledge (place the #4 by your feet while standing on ledge). Relax. From here move left to a drilled pin, move up and left to the arete and another drilled pin and an alcove/roof. Place as much shit gear as possible (I had 5 equalized pieces and that wouldn't have held a fall). Relax. Make the final easy moves to the anchor. (these moves are easier then they appear). Another anchor is on the notch side of the tower. 5.10+, 130'.

Descent: Rappel to the Notch and then to the ground.


Location 

Start on the North side or on the Northwest side.


Protection 

Standard Rack, 1 old #4 camalot for pitch 2.



Add Photo Photos of Lizard Action
Matt on pitch 1 of Crow's Beak.

Matt on pitch 1 of Crow's Beak.

Matt on top of Luminous being.  Summit of don juan visible in the background.

Matt on top of Luminous being. Summit of don juan...

Luminous Being's summit from the top of Don Juan. Lizard Action tops out at a different anchor on the other side, then you rap to the notch from the anchors visable. You can also see the ammo can register.

BETA PHOTO: Luminous Being's summit from the top of Don Juan. ...

Looking down at Ben at the second rappel's anchors in the notch from the rappel off Luminous Being. This rappel is used to get off both towers.

Looking down at Ben at the second rappel's anchors...