This route climbs the left side of the northwest face beginning directly below the point where the spire meets the notch. It follows an obvious crack system and can be identified by an A-frame roof about halfway to the notch.
Pitch 1 – Climb a left facing/right leaning corner to a belay just below the A-frame roof. The anchor here is slings tied around boulders so bring some replacement cord and a knife to remove the tat that you will likely find. (5.8)
(An optional first pitch climbs straight up to the roof beginning on a pair of thin cracks that turn into a single wide crack before the anchor)
Pitch 2 – Continue over the roof and up to a belay in the notch. (5.10)
Pitch 3 – Climb up broken rock tending left until you get into a clean, angular chimney which pinches down in the back offering some wide protection. (This chimney is visible in the photo on the cover of Desert Rock IV) From the top of the chimney climb right over some loose terrain until you are standing below a short slab. Climb the slab and the corner above it to the summit. (This slab is the mental crux of the route and also why it gets an R rating.) Watch for rope drag on this pitch. (5.9 R-)
Rappel from bolts to the notch and then from slings to the ground near the start of the route.
Protection
Standard Rack plus a #4 and #5 Camalot A couple long runners for pitch three.
Don Juan Spire
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