The route climbs a crack system on the Northwest face of the tower, starting near the right side of the face in an obvious chimney/groove. There are rappel anchors visible to the left of the route.Pitch 1- Stem up a cool groove past a really chossy section to a ledge/alcove belay (gear not great at belay, but stance is bomber). 5.9+Pitch 2- Climb an easy chimney to a two bolt stance on the shoulder of the tower. (the pitch originally went to here, but I continued up some loose C2 and 5.9 to a large ledge with a gear belay.Pitch 3- Move left about 40 feet and climb a fun roof crack with good feet then some face and crack climbing above to the summit. 5.9+
Descent- Rap straight down NW face in two double rope rappels.
Protection
2-3 sets of cams from small to #3 camalot. 1 #4 camalot. set of nuts.
Dave Levine and I went back in 1998 and freed this with a variation to avoid the aid section. From the shoulder belay, I downclimbed the easy chimney for fifteen feet, then traversed left around the arete to the north face. Traversed about twenty more feet, at around 5.8, until directly under the last pitch, and belayed. Then climbed straight up a left-facing corner to the final pitch, at about 5.10a or so.
In 2001 without much info on the route, we made an ascent up the rappel line. Thinking that we were on route we started up the chimney then after 30 feet traversed left to meet up with the rappel line. (My partner on toprope free climbed a direct line from the ground) The first pitch involved easy climbing and traversing without a lot of gear then a couple moves of aid (probably free to someone else) to gain the crack system and belay in a cave.Pitch #2 Free climb up for about 30 feet then traverse right and then up then traverse back left to rappel anchors (marginal gear, fairly difficult climbing)Pitch #3 Straight up fairly enjoyable crack to join up with cave belay for the final pitch of original route.Pitch #4 out roof and up final pitch
Not a highly recommended route but it was a fun adventure
The Meemohive
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