First climbed by Layton Kor et.al. in 1962, this is the tower of which Kor said "We climbed it because it won't always be there." Although not quite "layers of rye-krisp sandwiched between layers of kitty litter" this rock ain't granite. But the standard route is actually pretty solid. It is a 300' tower with a 50' diameter at the base and maybe 6' at the top. Towers don't get more phallic than this, and the summit is simply awe-inspiring.
Getting There
Follow the directions under the "Island in the Sky" area to Monument Basin. The road heads North then turns West and then Southwest, and just as it heads directly South it gets very close to the rim. This is where you want to walk out on rock (careful of the cryptobiotic soil) to the rim. There are some small trees right on the edge. Set up an anchor and fix a rope. Rap down to the ground (bring jumars to get out) and follow the wash down to the basin. Standing Rock is obvious.
There is a trail down to the basin, starting farther south (about 1 mile) and is a long hike.
This is my favorite desert tower route. Now all free, with a well-protected crux, much Eldorado Canyon-style face climbing on fine rock, cheek-clenching exposure (or is it fine exposure and cheek-clenching rock?), and a classic flat summit. The regular route (the only other route, on the south side, has aid and is likely unrepeated) is a true desert classic, combining a sense of history and exploration with technical high quality pitches.Start ...[more]
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