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Island In The Sky 


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Administrators: Kristine Hoffman, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 3, 2002

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Canyonlands.
Photo by Blitzo.


Description 

Located in the northern sector of Canyonlands National Park, this is one of the most breath-taking places on Earth. Island in the Sky offers adventure climbing in its purest sense on some of the most impressive towers anywhere in the desert. Add a long and involved drive on rough roads, strenous approaches, scary rappels, and sometimes rotten, hair-raising rock and you have an area that will humble even the crustiest of desert rats.

Climbing began in this otherwordly place in the early 60's with names like Layton Kor and Huntley Ingalls. Other noteworthy ascents were also made in the 60's by Larry Dalke and the Horn brothers. The 70's brought Fred Beckey, Eric Bjornstad, Jim Dunn, Ed Webster, Steve Hong, and many more. The 80's saw epic free ascents by Charlie Fowler, Chip Chace, Ken Sims, Webster, Dreiman, Olevsky and others. Standards of difficult and dangerous free climbing continue to be pushed in the area and many new lines await those with the ability and courage to try them.

The best times to go to Island in the Sky are Spring and Fall. Beware of snow and ice on the road in the Spring - it's a big drop in places! It is cold in the winter and very hot in the Summer, duh. Plan on early starts for everything here and don't underestimate any route. The drive out is long and can be difficult to follow in the dark.

Climbing in the Island is dangerous, so if you can not accept this fact do not go there. Loose rock abounds and every route will have some suspect stone on it. Wear a helmet if you enjoy the use of your brain. Plan on replacing worn webbing on rappels, don't skimp, it's your ass out there. Moab is the closest hospital.

This is a fragile environment and is a national park for everyone's enjoyment, so please leave no trace. Look for existing trails and stay in rocky washes whenever possible. National park rules apply here, so don't bring your dog and don't leave any new fixed gear unless it is an emergency. Clean aid only, no hammers!!!


Getting There 

Arrive at Island in the Sky via the White Rim Jeep Trail (do not try this in a low-clearance car). Head northwest out of Moab on 191, and turn left onto 313 after 9 miles. Drive 22 miles to the junction with the Shafer Trail and the ranger station. Follow the Shafer trail and descend for 4 miles to the White Rim trail. Continue for another 13 miles passing the Airport Towers to Buck Canyon and Monster Tower. Continue on for another 18 miles to reach Monument Basin. Allow at least 3 hours to reach Monument Basin from the ranger station. Buy a map but beware that Monster Tower, Washer Woman, and Sandcastle are incorrectly located on the map. A guide book is a good idea.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Island In The Sky:
Kor Route   5.10 R     Trad, Grade II   Monster Tower
In Search Of Suds   5.10+     Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III   Washer Woman
Dunn Route   5.11-     Trad, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III   Moses
Sisyphus   5.11 R     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade III   Zeus
North Ridge   5.11     Trad, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III   Monster Tower
Sims-Hesse-Hanning Route   5.11c     Trad, 3 pitches, Grade III   Charlie Horse Needle
The Regular Route   5.11c     Trad, 4 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II   Standing Rock
Primrose Dihedrals   5.11+     Trad, 7 pitches, 600 feet, Grade IV   Moses
Pale Fire   5.12b     Trad, 4 pitches, 600 feet, Grade IV   Moses
Browse More Classics in Island In The Sky

Featured Route For Island In The Sky
AT the top of the 3rd pitch, belaying the second on the final 3-move 5.6 to the true summit.

Sims-Hesse-Hanning Route 5.11c  UT : Moab Area : ... : Charlie Horse Needle
(P1) scramble up on a ledge and climb a fist crack splitter (5.10) that is right next to a 6 friend corner. When possible, pull up into the wide chimney and do a few 5.7 moves to gain a hand crack on the left wall of the chimney. Belay here inside the chimney at a good stance on a wedged boulder.(P2) climb the hand crack up the chimney wall and follow it out onto the face at a sloping ledge. Continue up the crack, now 1.5 friend sized for a few moves until it is possible to move...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Island In The Sky Slideshow Add Photo
Green River on the West side of Island In The Sky. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Green River on the West side of Island In The Sky....

Monster Tower (left) and Washer Woman stand like sentres over the White Rim Trail.

Monster Tower (left) and Washer Woman stand like s...

Shafer Trail switchbacks.

Shafer Trail switchbacks.

Aerial view of Monster and Washer Women

Aerial view of Monster and Washer Women

Blocktop and Islet from the rim

Blocktop and Islet from the rim

Isle in the Sky Sunset.

Isle in the Sky Sunset.

Gooseneck of the Colorado as viewed from Dead Horse Point.  <br /> <br />(Island In The Sky district of Canyonlands NP in the distance.)

Gooseneck of the Colorado as viewed from Dead Hors...

Ari sending the first pitch of Pale Fire, backside of Moses

Ari sending the first pitch of Pale Fire, backside...

Early evening clouds from the <em>Island in the Sky.</em>

Early evening clouds from the Island in the Sk...

Moses and Zeus. Photo: Bob Horan

Moses and Zeus. Photo: Bob Horan

from the white rim road. what needle is that?!

from the white rim road. what needle is that?!

La Sals and White Rim.

La Sals and White Rim.

The crew to climb Islet and Block Top. The shorts are longer (Jim), the bean cans smaller and the hair thinner now. <br />

The crew to climb Islet and Block Top. The shorts ...

Necronomicon

Necronomicon


Comments on Island In The Sky Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Feb 17, 2004

Washer Woman Arch is fantastic! LD and I did the first recorded tandem head stands on Monster Tower, a piece of stone that hadn't been climbed for 1 yr prior to our ascent. Top grade hand cracks, stout finger cracks, capped by a series of 5.12 face moves that had us trad boys pulling A1 onto the summit block....Come to think of it....the rock is crap, the climb is crap, and the view sucks. I discourage all suitors!

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 13, 2007

What kind of Vehicle can make it down there?

By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Sep 25, 2009

I drove a 1978 Dodge Aspen wagon on the Shaffer Trail many times. In the early eighties. We got the wagon into Taylor Canyon at least twice. It's all in the technique.