The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
A consistently interesting and rewarding tower route hidden from the more-crowded east side of the towers and featuring challenging sections of ringlocks and rattly fists at the cruxes on pitches 2 and 4. Ed Webster called this one of the hardest tower routes in the desert at the time. They climbed it over two days and rigged a tyrolean between the twin summits of King of Pain.
pitch 1: left facing corner: 5.9 pitch 2: switch cracks to the right, passing a pin to attain the ringlock-sized splitter: 5.11+ pitch 3: mostly wider. cave belay on mid-sized cams: 5.10 pitch 4: pull the wide roof-crack in the corner directly above the belay: 5.11+ pitch 5: continue to the notch between King of Pain and Bridger Jack Butte. The Butte is a safe bet to summit, the condition of the anchors on the north King of Pain are the subject of much speculation.
Location
On the west face of the north summit of the King of Pain tower. The prominent corner system and splitter thin-hand crack leading to the steep left leaning, left facing corner above. The easiest plan is to summit Bridger Jack Butte and rap Wildflower with double ropes.
Protection
A few of all sizes from fingers to old #4 camalots. The cruxes are short.
A good route for sure....the analog crack system of Vision Quest. Three #4 friends or equiv. Save one to back up the old bolts atop p.4 (or #4 camalot). The last pitch climbs out of the notch and face moves to the N. summit.
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