The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
A good introduction to Indian Creek, Split Pinnacle tackles a tight hands to fist crack up the center of a short leaning tower. Disappointing in length, its still a nice and quick stop if you're looking to get a feel for hand cracks.
Easily accessible from the road, This is a fun route to do if you're short on time, just arriving, or looking for a mellow warm-up or warm-down.
Start by diving right in on the thinnest part of the crack. Squirm your way up the generous start until you can start burying those hands with solid jams. Keep climbing til the hands turn to fists, give a grunt and pop out on top at a chain anchor.
Location
Located about 0.6 miles past Newspaper Rock and on the right just after the Friction Slabs is Split Pinnacle. Parking can be found just prior too and on the left by the campground. Walk down the road until the crack becomes visible. Its the only obvious splitter set about 15 off the road.
Protection
Cams from 3/4" to 4" (.75-#3 bd or equivalent). Chain anchor.
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