The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This two-pitch route is the corner just left of Broken Tooth. The first pitch is the worst I've climbed at Indian Creek. The rock is loose, hollow, and very sandy, and except for the first piece or two, most protection is dubious. The first pitch is rated 10- in the Bloom guidebook and that seemed about right. It would be good not to fall leading this pitch.
The second pitch ascends a thin-hands and hands size crack up a flake. The rock is quite solid and would even be a good one to push your limits.
I'd give the first pitch a bomb and the second three stars; one star overall.
Location
The corner just left of Broken Tooth. Rappel from a bolted anchor. A 70m rope reaches the ground with a few feet to spare. A 60m rope may not reach so bring an extra rope just to be on the safe side.
Protection
A little of this and a little of that for the first pitch. The second pitch is all #1 and #2 Camalots. #3 Friends will also fit in a couple of places higher up on the second pitch. Each pitch is about sixty feet in length. The latest edition of the Bloom guidebook indicates that there's an intermediate anchor but we didn't see one.
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