The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
In the north side thin hand crack (5.10, 25m) to legde. On this 5m to the right, over an overhang with a crack (C0) to presummit. Decend a bit, then jump over to a pillar in the notch. Hand crack (5.8, 20m) to ledge. Easy friction scrambling (3rd or 4th grade) up the slope to the summit. The summit register is just where the slopy rock ends and before the flat summit.
Location
The route starts in the narrow north face of the northern pre-summit. Decent: Scramble down the slope to the end of the hand crack. We abseiled down there from a knot sling to the pillar in the notch, as our bolting equipment was unsuitable. From the pillar abseil (rope across pillar and abseil simultaneous on both sides or similar) to base of chimney, then climb down easy the last m to the ground.
Protection
A few #1 and #2 camalot, one #3 camalot, some long slings.
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