The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This is a great mixed climb that requires endurance stemming/chimneying and the ability to crank on first-digit locks.
Begin immediately right of Tofu Crack and head up a wide crack to the top of a large block. Climb up sandy rock to a ledge below the business: A long, narrowing finger crack on the right and an obtuse corner on the left. Head up this with increasing difficulty to a bolt, then bust some creative moves past a difficult second clip, and finally some pumpy but secure locks to the anchor.
Protection
0.5 Camalots down to purple TCU's/blue Aliens. A #2 and/or #4 Camalot with a long sling is useful for the start.
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