The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
BETA PHOTO: The crack is the one in the left side of the photo...
Description
Climb up 15 ft. of easy stuff to a good stance at the base of the spitter. Plug in a .5 cam or orange tcu. Climb the finger crack with the help of the sloping arete to the right. When the arete peters out, there is a pod and a foot hold where you have to mantel. Then start the crux which is .75 camelot curving splitter. Finishes with thin hands over a bulge to good hands to anchors.
Location
20 feet to the left of big guy. Anchors on top. Nylon on anchors so an inspection may be needed.
Protection
some .5(purple) cams and/or orange TCU's. A couple of green cams and/or #5 black metolius cams. Then one or two #1(red) cams and possibly one gold cam.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Apr 27, 2009 rating: 5.11-
A pretty nice climb, with occasional footholds, and good stances for rests to keep it from going 11+. Too short to be classic though. Feels shorter because of all the easy climbing at hte beginning.
Last time I climbed it 3/14/09 I remember the plaque saying Pop Quiz, but I might be mistaken.
By Bowie From: San Diego, CA Apr 29, 2009 rating: 5.11
Was there this last weekend - plaque definitely says Brown on Butter. I struggled with the .75 section, offset and a little tricky, but overall a great little route and easy to protect so it makes a decent "warm-up".
there seems to be some sort of "retro-plaquing" movement. i have noticed quite a few plaques on routes that didn't have them before, ie coyne crack, supercrack, the 5.10 twin crack corner that is 50' left of scarface, this unnamed crack, etc. seems pretty ghey.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
