The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Scott laybacking for glory high on "Pussy Whipped"
Description
This route is very good, not as great as many of the classics on the Cat wall, but still quite worthwhile. The route starts with a tight corner, rattly fingers size. It's not that hard, though, since a combination of chimneying and stemming helps with upward progress. Pull an easy roof on some flared hand jams, get a good rest, and then charge up the right facing corner above. This starts as rattly fingers and then narrows to tight fingers up high. Definitely an enduro crux; the finishing corner is long and has only one marginal rest.
Location
This route is to the climber's left of 9 lives, on the far left side of Cat wall. Look for the 2 metolius rap bolts atop a shallow RF corner.
Protection
(In Camalots) #0.3-#2, with an extra 0.4, and many 0.5 and 0.75 (purple and green).
1.5 Friends work very well in many places on this route, so bring em if you have em.
Also, a long sling or two might be useful for arranging your pro coming out of the stembox and around the mini-roof.
Thanks to whoever put in the new metolius rap bolts on this thing, good looking hardwear. Make sure, though, that you use a couple long slings while TRing, in order to reduce the inward pull that might turn these bolts into spinners. A couple chains might help as well.
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