The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Instead of clipping the anchors on Swedin-Ringle, nest some (really good) gear and climb the arete until you can rejoin the crack higher up. Finish in the steep, slightly crumbly right-arching fingers to thin hands crack.
Location
Some will recognize this route from the Parallelojams video; most others will note that it is the oft-chalked extension to the prominent Swedin-Ringle. Lower with a 60m rope. The fixed "hardware" was pieces of static rope and carabiners in April of 2008 that was probably old.
Protection
No bolts unless you clip the Swedin-Ringle anchor (apparently this is a taboo if leading the entire route; pretend the anchor doesn't exist and forget I mentioned it). Gear from tiny (.33 or black Aliens) to 1 inch. Doubles or triples of finger to hand pieces are useful. Note that it is possible but difficult to place protection during the crux, with the possibility of a large but mostly clean fall. Hence the 'R' rating. See my comments below.
Instead of taking 50+ foot falls from the top of the crux, it is possible to place gear during the arete sequence. This would be difficult to do during an onsight attempt. The cam is very small and it is difficult to see the placement, so it remains exciting. I did fall on this cam (a blindly placed 00 TCU) once and it was solid. This route can be toproped via "Three Strikes You're Out" but the lead is really worth it as it adds some great climbing and a more logical finish to the otherwise unremarkable Swedin-Ringle crack.
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