The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Climb through broken cracks in a dihedral for 25 feet to gain a ledge. Either start jamming a good hand crack right off the ledge or stem into it a few feet up. Enter a shallow left facing dihedral for 20 feet before pulling onto the face where the crack narrows gradually from hands to tight fingers with marginal feet to the right. The last 20 feet angle back left with very tight fingers to anchors on a ledge.
Location
First route to the right of David. About 200 feet left from On the Up and Up.
Protection
A pair of rings for an anchor up top. Mostly .75" and 1" for the lower sections and finger sizes for the top. A 70m rope barely gets you back to terra firma.
I did the FFA of this pitch and called it 5.11... the next few people that i brought to try it said it was a world class sandbag at 5.11 oh well... sweet route!
This is one of my favorite pitches at the Creek. It is varied and has a little bit of everything, including a sporty finish if you dare use the super soft face holds outside the finger crack. This thing is proper 5.11, but perhaps sandbagged when compared to the typical 5.11 IC fare. Thanks Alf, enjoyed the tour on Party Ledge!
i cleaned the whole pitch from the top, concentrating on the insane off width starting at 35 meters.
I gave the first pitch to adam, who worked it quickly, and gave it a classical grade. He placed a marvelous equalized two bolt first anchor. I have been top roping the second pitch, which I believe to be 5.12 off width.
It starts 6 cammalot and gets bigger slowly. There is about 8 meters of flake, and then the remainder of pitch 2 is straight in crack with curious face features here and there.
About 8 meters from anchor 2, there is a directional/protection bolt that keeps the rope to the right, and protects a section where big bros work poorly.
The second anchor is also two large chains. I have never made it past the directional bolt clean. The crack leans and is a tough size.
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