The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Climb a zigzag off-width to a chimney and continue up to a nice anchor. Rap off or traverse 20 ft right on the big ledge and find the second pitch: an absolutely perfect camlot#6 splitter.
Location
To the left of Goliath.
Protection
Two #6 camalot, three #5 camalot for the first pitch. (An old #4 can be placed in a constriction.) Three #6 camalot for the second pitch.
first pitch first ascent by Jonas Wiklund, and second ascent by Alf. 20 meters with leaning five inch crack.
Second pitch with sustained six inch crack. First ascent by Alf. 20 meters with overhanging block top out, providing an 5.11+ pump.
Third pitch is a varied, 50 meters or so to the top. I have top roped it, but it remains to be cleaned or lead. There is no anchor on the top, although there is a convenient station at the top of Goliath for your rappelling pleasure.
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