The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Superb and sustained fingers in a corner, broken with some pods, face features and some rests. The crux is in the initial section. Above, good faceholds take some of the "bite" out of it. This thing is long and well worth the trip.
Location
This is just right of Unnamed 5.11- and just left of the side-by-side Unnamed 5.10+ and Unnamed 5.10 that share the same anchor. Starts with an initial section of sandy rock in the corner that is easily scrambled before climbing the right-facing corner.
Protection
A bunch (6-8) of finger size pieces, gray and purple Camalots with a couple smaller (green Alien size) and a couple each bigger up to #2 Camalot. 2 ropes.
Great route! Neither Bloom's guide nor the above post mention this route starts on top of a 15' pillar in the starting corner- that will help you find it! Felt pretty hard about 15' up, but it seemed to have multiple cruxy sections. I'd say its one of the best i've done at the creek. I'd recommend a comfy rack of 4 blue metolius, 8 yellow, 8 orange, 4 red, and a couple 2.5 friends. This route is loooooong!
RSS Feed
