The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
A few thin moves down low to gain the top of the block....and it's hands and big hands to the anchor. Some small loose blocks were removed at the start. The remaining blocks seem to be quite solid. There is a small ledge about half way up that still has some rocks chillin' on it.
Location
The route is approx. 100 yards to the left of Excuse Station. Look for the nice looking corner. It has a few wedged blocks at the start of it. Where the hand crack ends there is a seam that continues through some wavy roofs, the anchor is located to the left of the crack at this point. There is a plaque at the base.
Protection
Gear is #.5 camalot to #3 camalot, mostly #2's and #3's. The anchors are located to the left of the crack where it ends. The chains are visible from the ground (start).
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