The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This three pitch splitter is easily viewed from the road. It is a great route for those who like things a little wider.
P1 - Climb a flake crack up about 20 feet to reach the start of the splitter. Continue up hands, which quickly become cups, and then fists to a fixed anchor. (5.10, 110')
P2 - Continue up with more fists and offwidth past a drilled angle to a wide slot. Work into the slot and up to a fixed anchor. (5.10, 110')
P3 - Hands, fists, and offwidth will take you to a slightly sandy finish and a small ledge just below the rim. There is a "fixed" anchor here that could use a new bolt. (5.10+, 90')
Descent - We rappelled the route with a single 70m. Not sure if a 60m would do it or not.
Location
Cactus Flower section of the walls. Right of the large chimney system and left of a large leaning pillar.
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