The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
This seldom climbed offwidth might be just what the doctor ordered for you wide crack affectiano's. Start in a flaring tight corner with a loose flake for your feet and a hand crack in the back. The crack slowly widens as you grunt your way up the flare to about #4 Camalot size. Take a good rest in a chimney stance, pull around a bulge and then start the right angling traverse. Hands to fists to offwidth take you to the anchor.
Location
Just right of Three Fools. An obvious wide crack in a flare that curves up and right after about 60'.
Protection
This route requires mostly large gear up to a #5 Camalot. I would recommend 2 #2's, 3 #3's, 1 #3.5, 4 #4's, 1 #4.5 and 1 #5 these are all Camalot size's. Two bolt anchor at the end.
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