The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
P1(.11c): Climb the difficult fingercrack to a ledge at the bottom of a chimney. 5.11c. P2(.10-): Scamper up the squeeze chimney passing a fixed pin, to bolt anchors, 5.10-R. P3(.12-): Traverse Right past a bolt(or two) on unusual face holds to a right facing corner. Go up the corner to a zig-zagging splitter in the wide fingers/very thin hands range(green & red camalots)until you get to a roof. Undercling right 10 feet under the roof to an overhanging thin hands crack. Crank 15 feet or so to the anchor.
Location
Located about 20 yards right of King Cat, before reaching Lynx and Line King. Rappel Double ropes to an anchor on a route directly below the top anchors; Then on one rope to the ground.
Protection
Triples in the thin fingers, fingers, fat fingers ranges, doubles otherwise up to #3 camalot. A huge cam or a couple of tube chocks could remove the 'R' from the squeeze, but really its not so bad.
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