The Doghouse 

FA:  Matt Lisenby & Michael Barnthouse New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.12 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 180 feet Views: 91 page views Submitted By: Matt Lisenby on Sep 12, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

The doghouse is an 80 foot extention of 'unnamed # 29" in Bloom's guidebook. It starts with a widening fingercrack in an awkward closed dihedral then goes to a wide slot and then a hand crack which lands you at the optional original anchors(5.11) Launch into fingers and tips overlaps with a couple of changing dihedrals moves
(crux) to gain the thin upper dihedral. Fun and tenuous stemming with great nut placements lands you in the final widening handcrack to the upper anchors. A third pitch could be added . . .

Location 

Maybe 20 yards right of alley cat. The upper headwall crack and dihedral is easily identified.

Protection 

A double set of cams through #4 will get you to the first anchors. From the first anchors, a double set of TCU's through big fingers, a set of wires, and a single set of cams through fist will probably be enough. Some long runners (as well as draws for the nuts) will help avoid rope drag through the roofs.