Supercrack of the Desert 

While getting onto the pedestal is definitely the technical crux, the hardest part for me is just enduring to the anchors. I have relatively small hands and the #3 Camalot-sized crack feels insecure and drains me. I think this is a MUCH harder crack than the Incredible Hand Crack (which is trivial except for the overhanging twenty foot section) and much harder than the perfect #2 Camalot crack of Generic Crack. I also find it harder than any other 5.10 crack that I have done in this area - mainly because of my hand size, but also because there is no chance for rest (unlike many of other 5.10 cracks like Generic Hand Crack, IHC, Gorilla Crack, Keyhole Flake, etc.) Hence, I think the crack itself is solid 5.10, not 5.9. Your hand size (and opinion) will vary, of course.

Those of us with big hands find Incredible Hand Crack (IHC) technically harder. Supercrack is way enduro, but I find I can hand jam it all the way (although the start is thin hands and I am really cupped out near the anchors). The crux of IHC is short (relatively), but it is desperate thin hands for me. I have heard that IHC is slowly getting wider (and likely Supercrack too), so in 10 years or so the ratings may have to be revised!

Bill, Mike, and George all make excellent points, consistent with my own limited experience at Indian Creek. It seems that adding letter grades to the routes at IC wouldn't really give any useful information, and most of the route submissions on this site so far seem to recognize this. As far as Supercrack goes, I think the best consensus is that it is "5.10". Some may think it is 10a, some may think it's 10d+. Strangely, everyone would be right.

I wouldn't enjoy leading Supercrack with the gear list in this description. #3 friends are only really nice for the first 30 ft. or so of the crack proper. After that they get pretty tipped out, and 3.5 friends fit much better, if a little tight. But 3 camalots are absolutely perfect for the final 50 feet and I'd recommend bringing more of that thatn any other piece if you can get it.

I would add that the climber in the photo below seems to be carrying an awful lot of #3 camalots!

Now, Charles ... "heavy and slow" is our motto. I followed Bernard up this climb (he of the oversized rack in the photo below), and he placed exactly 3 #3 Camalots. The first was quite tight, and a #2 (Camalot) would have worked. Nonetheless, you're probably right, and I should modify my gear beta above by recommending that you take 3 or 4 #4 Friends, and two 3.5 Friends.

Or ... just take 5 or 6 #3 Camalots. As Charles notes, these fit better than anything in the upper section of the climb.

the first move is solid 10c the next 10 feet is a debatable 9+ with the next three moves a solid 10a. The following eleven moves are 10b/c, with moves 15-37 10b. moves 37-42 are 10b as well.

Additional beta: this is a good climb to wear a long sleeved shirt. Better yet, tape it around your wrists, so that when you show up at work the next day you don't have to explain those nasty scabs covering the insides of your wrists and forearms.

I think I felt like sneezing between the 26th and 27th move. I might be wrong.

I agree, getting to the pedestal = technical crux. Just blast through it. I don't suggest getting pumped early by placing anything; it's not that high anyway. Like all splitter cracks, this one is hand-size dependent. If you have larger-than-average hands, you'll cruise the top 1/3. If you have normal hands (perfect for Incredible Hand Crack), you'll find the top section to be a bit of a beyatch. Heavy on the #1-#3 Camalots.

Oh yea, OVER-RATED.

i'll start off by saying i haven't done a great deal of climbing in indian creek: but i did truly enjoy leading this route. in my opinion, it is definitely a classic and a must climb for the creek.
a lot of climbers have added good and valid info about this climb, some of which i agree with, some of which i don't. that's the double edged sword of mountainproject- everyone can speak their mind, but don't ever take anything on this site as absolute.
it is my opinion that:
getting onto the pedestal is the technical crux.
protect the technical crux as to not hit the ground (#2 with a runner works well, avoids rope drag)
if your hands are perfect for incredible hand crack- this will feel bigger
if so-wear long sleeves or go to work with nasty scabs (but be proud!)
before the roof- #2 camalots fit perfectly
after the roof you won't need anything but #3 camalots- i think i had 5
have fun

love this route. i always come here and climb this at least once. endurance is the key.

Here is a link to a video of Catherine Destivelle soloing this impressive climb:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGNfeVAGxPY

Beautiful to watch. Scary though.

-chris

Brian Becker and Ed Webster were also part of the first ascent party.

This thing really is a beauty. Last two times on it, we were the only ones in the lot. The new plaque is very nice, there was also a new plaque by Coyne Crack.

the plaque is pretty unnecessary. earl is probably rolling over in his grave.

The new plaque is beautiful, leave it alone. If this isn't a 4 star pitch I don't know what is.

As I understand it, this was first done as a two pitch route. Anyone have beta on P2? Are there anchors up top? Does the rock stay good? Grade? Gear? Thanks!