Portions of Reservior Wall are on private land and should not be climbed MORE INFO >>>
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
Description
To find this route continue left on Resevior Wall past the Pente area perhaps 150 meters to a route facing right in some semi-parallel cracks (Skank on the Hanglow, a new route with a slate at the bottom). Continue past this perhaps another 100 meters to a MASSIVE left facing corner with a off-hands to off-fists crack in it. It is characterized by three small roofs in the corner and a slate with the name, grade, & date placed in a horizontal, 2 meters up the climb.Go up the runout start (5.8+ stemming) to reach 20M of perfect hand-jams, then continue up the widening crack past 3 rooves, each bumping the leader to the left slightly.
This is a good route, but needs a little more traffic to be great. The rock is solid, the line good, the moves great, adn the anchors trustworthy, However, under the first two roofs, there is some accumulation of dust that is not yet well cleaned off. My partner did some hand-brushing, but the route needs more, and we had no cloth or brush to dust it off with.
Protection
A run of cams from 2.5+ inches to 3.5 inches- heavy on the 3" and 3.5"