My Son is a Perv! 

FA:  ? Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.10 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 100 feet Views: 65 page views Submitted By: tooTALLtim on Apr 26, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Tim about to commit. The drilled angle is at his ...

Description 

The mental crux is right off the ground, climbing through the sugary rock to get to the good stuff. Climb through the bad stuff for 20ft, then take a breath at the ledge. There will be a drilled angle with red webbing at your chest.

Follow the crack as you jam, stem, and layback to the bulge up top, and scrape through the low angle OW up top to the chains!

Location 

Looking left from Sabbatical, you'll see an obvious stem box about 150ft away. The red webbing from the drilled angle should be visible.
There is a plaque and a tree at the base. Don't belay at the tree, because any loose rock will come right at you!

Protection 

Approximately: doubles from .75 to 3 Camalot, one .5, and an OPTIONAL 5 or 6 for the top OW (didn't have one, don't know!). Also, one drilled angle.

There are two shiny bolts with rings up top.