The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Clean moves on clean rock. Thin hands to thinner than that. Small people will find both the jamming and slot contortions easier than big people. Start in a left-facing corner with 1.5" gear (easier than it looks) and climb up into a flaring slot with 'forever' of thin hands jams to a wide spot. Pull the wide section to a good rest and finish up top in a 1.5" crack that is harder than it looks. Finish and clip before you run out of gas!
Location
Left a good ways from the approach trail and beyond a HUGE right-facing corner that forms an entire section of wall. There is a small plaque at the base, but it is still easy to walk right past this climb and not notice it until you reach 'Workin Man (11-)' and look back 40 meters into the obvious dark corner.
Protection
Lots of cams from 1.5" to 2.5" with emphasis on 2". Take a #4 friend or larger equivalent for a middle section that is wide and save some thin cams for the tea-cups up top.
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