The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
A slightly harder short route- starting off with jamming and ending in an open-book layback. The crux is probably coming out of the wide-finger layback and getting into the crack above on poor feet. Good rock, good moves, but too short to be satisfying.
Location
perhaps 50 meters right of the Sabbatical corner, and 15 meters right of the 'Unknown D.F. Route' there is a very obtuse corner formed by a flake against the wall. This is wide down low with a small crack in it, and narrow up top. A set of black slings hangs in a pin/bolt anchor above and is easily seem from the right of the route, but not from below.
Protection
Good gear, but hard to place up high due to position and angle- the flake takes gear from .5" to 2", mostly in the finger size up high, and ascends to a sling and ring anchor on a bolt and pin. The PG-13 rating here reflects a subjective danger to inexperienced leaders who might have difficulty sizing blind pro in an open book layback or placing properly and deeply enough to be safe in a thin flake.
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