The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
A short route with a short crux. This climb ascends a few moves up to a shelf, then jams loose hands to step up onto a square flat stance near the crack, the route's crux. Distinct rest stances are key opportunities for protection before the crux and other opportunities are from pretty good stances. An excellent beginner lead. A neophyte leader would never be far from the ground, protection, or a watchful belayer.
Location
About 20 meters right of Sabbatical there is an obvious crack and corner system with a ~3" crack and a right-facing corner crux. A plaque at the base reads: "D.F. 5.10" but the route is easier than 5.10.
Protection
A few 2.3-3.5" cams are the meat of it. More may be desired, but since the whole route can be seen from the ground, there is no problem determining what gear any individual might need.
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