The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This is the thin finger and tips crack in between Rock Lobster and Polygrip. It's often toproped and my understanding is that it's only seen a couple leads.
Location
Thin crack in between Rock Lobster and Polygrip. Shares anchor with Polygrip, but is commonly toproped from anchors on Rock Lobster.
Protection
Thin stuff up to 1.5 Friend, heavy in tips and finger sizes.
I agree that this route is most often toproped. I have lead it and know of multiple others who have as well. Pro is safe and plentiful. It actually takes stoppers in multiple places. My guess is that it has seem more than the "couple" leads the original poster claims it's seem.
So...if we fix up some anchors on this cliff with chains and such, would anybody freak if this got its own anchor? Running the rope off of Rock Lobster or Polygrip seems to have caused a hell of a lot more damage than a couple bolts would have.
By C Tirrell From: Fort Collins, Co Mar 22, 2009 rating: 5.12a/b
Unlikely that this has seen few leads as the crack takes great gear. I found this to be a superb, sustained .11 finger crack with a definite crux section where the crack pinches to tips. The only detraction is that one can stem/reach to the Rock Lobster crack at key moments, making the direct line slightly contrived. Still a beautiful line offering great climbing..
I support adding independent anchors to this line. Both finishes make cleaning difficult and damage the rock. Definitely worthy of it's own anchors.
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