Portions of Reservior Wall are on private land and should not be climbed MORE INFO >>>
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
Tony stretching towards the thin hands start to Pe...
Description
The first path leading to the wall puts you near this climb. Look for a large, I mean really large, detached block at the wall. Pente is the striking line just to the left as you face the wall. Look for a small alcove start with a crack on the right side (left facing), that pulls a small roof and leads to a small ledge. At this ledge, you should see some slings. The line then moves a few feet to the left to start the awesome and steep splitter. This section is mostly red camalot size with a few slightly larger pods in it. This leads to another small ledge. Above the ledge, the crack turns to a thinning left facing dihedral (mostly .75 Camalot). Catch your breath at the ledge and motor for the anchors. This climb is freaking awesome - varied and challenging.
Protection
Bring a heaping helping of #1 camalots. Some 2 and 2.5 Friends would also work. Also bring 2 or 3 #2 Camalots/3 Friends and the same goes for .75 Camalots/1.75 Friends. For the very top, you can place a couple pieces in the .5 Camalot range. You will need 2 ropes to rappel as this pitch is somewhere around 125 ft.
Probably 160-165', a 70 would miss by a mile, bring 2 ropes. Excellent to the first ledge, a bit tedious and a bit of rope drag above. As others said, good to have a couple .5-.75 (Camalot) size pieces for the top.
This Route Is sweeet!! #1s are usually pretty tough for me. I found that I just push through the thin stuff and every ten feet or so there seemed to be a GOOD hand jam. For me the start was kind of awkward and, also when the steepness eases off and the crack thins for the final stratch to the anchors. Not hard but your pumped and it seems your feet mey slip on the sandy-ish rock.
Pente is one of the finest crack routes I've climbed. Of course, the splitter is classic, but the left-facing corner above really gives the route its full value!
Take advantage of any rests you may find.
The gear recommendation in the new Bloom book is good. However, for peace-of-mind, one might consider taking an additional #2, #2.5, and/or #3.5 Friend(s).
The route is loooong. My hands are average sized (not small) and this route is perfect hands for peeps with small hands. Nonetheless it was quite enjoyable and sustained for the long face splitter. Some rests here and there to help. Then the 2nd half is the layback (for me). Good rests is the 2nd half. TR'ed this and its my fav 5.11 at the creek.
By Clay Rardon From: Philadelphia, PA Feb 17, 2008
This has to be my favorite pitch of crack anywhere. End of story.
This is hands down one of the best routes at the creek, especially in the 5.11 grade. Pretty much a hike if you know how to hand jam, the top part of the route is a bit of a sting in the tail though ... Don't make the mistake of taping for this route if you have bigger hands!
Reservoir Wall
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