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Sacred Cow Wall
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Cowch Potato 
Fatted Calf 
Karin's Corner 
Sacred Cow 
Steve Carruther's Memorial (aka SC Memorial) 

Sacred Cow 

5.12c

   

FA: Steve Hong, I assume
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12c [details]
Length: 150 feet
Season: shady in the morning, sun
Views: 478 page views

Submitted By: camhead on Nov 27, 2006


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Sam about to head into the ringlocks.


Description 

This is an awesome changing corner to splitter; in the same aesthetic league as Broken Brain or The Optimator. The plaque at the base gives it a 13a, which it would be if you have really big hands. For us average hands folk, I believe it is around 12c for endurance. Even more so than most Indian Creek routes, there are really no hard moves on this route.

(more detailed beta) The route pretty much goes like this: big fingers in shallow stem-box, then perfect hands in a left-facing corner through a small roof, then a jug rest below a very strenuous tight hands changing corners roof. This may be the technical crux of the route. This puts you below an awesome headwall and its slightly offset, forty-foot ringlocks splitter (wide green camalots, maybe tight 2 friends at places). This is the endurance crux. If you have small hands, this may be a thin hands section, but either way, it is still very enduro. Gun it for the salvation hand jam, and the anchors 15 feet above that. WOO!


Location 

maybe 100 yards to the left, and around a prow from the Fatted Calf/SC Memorial area.


Protection 

FRIENDS SIZES -- (2) #1, (6) #1.5, (7) #2, (3) #3. Green camalots seemed to work the best in the headwall, and were almost a bit tipped out. So 1.5 friends may be too small, but 2 friends were definitely a little big.



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By Michael Sokoloff
Aug 21, 2007

Having a couple Omega Linkcams solves the problem of finding the right cam size to fit in the headwall fingerstacking splitter. If you have them, save them for the top.

By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 19, 2008

black metolious cams fit perfect in
the headwall splitter.