Pleased To Meat You 

FA:  Keith Reynolds Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11c [details] Length:  70 feet Views: 111 page views Submitted By: Alex on Nov 15, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Vague and slightly incorrect rack in the Bloom guide lead me to believe he had not done the route...Also not quite 5.12.

Sure looks cool from the ground and it actually is a good line with nice moves down low but...Heads Up!!

The first 10 or so feet hold the crux section with small pro and committing moves while the upper two thirds is classic finger tip/finger dihedral liebacking. Crispy/fragile edges add to the excitement at the crux start with a good offset brass piece up to red and yellow Micro-Camalot size pro backed up with a #2 Camalot out left. Dicing it out at its best!

Location 

In between the sick looking Humble Pie and the exquisite At Your Cervix

Protection 

Offset brass nuts up to .5 Camalots