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The Optimator
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Optimator 

5.13-

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.13a [details]
Length: 110 feet
Views: 1,686 page views

Submitted By: Jeremy H on Nov 6, 2007


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Some cliffs are occasionally closed due to raptor nesting. 14-day camping limit. MORE INFO >>>

Booty shorts.


Description 

This route is to the far right of the wall. climb up onto a ledge to start the climb. Begin with a 20 foot right facing corner, then switch to a left facing corner for another 15 feet. Pass a few pods and try and rest before the imposing splitter above.


Protection 

the first corner is yellow alien.
You can fit a #1 when you switch corners.
The second corner goes from yellows alien to orange Metolius.
Place a couple .5 camalots before the pods.
Then you can place 4 .75 camalots or Red Metolius up to the bulge.
The bulge goes back to .5 camalots or red alien. through the roof.
Then you can place a few orange Metolius or Red alien to the top.
You can place 1 .75 at the top



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By m-earle
From: Durango CO
Nov 7, 2007

I would suggest taking one or two green aliens for the first couple of moves in the second corner. This route is amazing...FA Steve Petro?

By camhead
From: Columbus, OH
Dec 16, 2007

F.A. by the late Jose Pereyra. He also has an unrepeated route north of Lake Powell, "No Way Jose."

By Herb
Jun 11, 2009

I sent this route... in my dreams! Looks so clean that you could eat off of it.