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The Optimator
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"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 
90 proof T 
Annunaki T 
Backside Luge T 
Baroque T 
Beer Run T 
Bow Flex T 
Brodie Machine T 
Casey's Route T 
Charlie's Pillar T 
Chick Flick T 
Choss Eliminate TR 
Ditch 'em T 
Double Bock T 
Gunning For Gonzo T 
Hayutake T 
Hefe Weissen T 
Jews On Crack T 
Jive Crack T 
Kitchen Sink T 
Lady Pillar T 
Long Island Iced Ted T 
Miller Genuine Draft T 
Mudslide T 
Neat T 
Optimator T 
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 
Ram Implosion Wing T 
Road Soda T 
Sardikar T 
Season of the Worm, The T 
Soul Fire T 
St. Pauli Girl T 
Two Scoops T 
Unknown T 
Unnamed 11+ T 
Unnamed on Charlie's Pillar T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

Type:  Trad, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Jose Pereyra
Page Views: 7,654
Submitted By: Jeremy H on Nov 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Booty shorts.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This route is to the far right of the wall. climb up onto a ledge to start the climb. Begin with a 20 foot right facing corner, then switch to a left facing corner for another 15 feet. Pass a few pods and try and rest before the imposing splitter above.


the first corner is yellow alien.
You can fit a #1 when you switch corners.
The second corner goes from yellows alien to orange Metolius.
Place a couple .5 camalots before the pods.
Then you can place 4 .75 camalots or Red Metolius up to the bulge.
The bulge goes back to .5 camalots or red alien. through the roof.
Then you can place a few orange Metolius or Red alien to the top.
You can place 1 .75 at the top

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By m-earle
From: USA
Nov 7, 2007

I would suggest taking one or two green aliens for the first couple of moves in the second corner. This route is amazing...FA Steve Petro?
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Dec 16, 2007

F.A. by the late Jose Pereyra. He also has an unrepeated route north of Lake Powell, "No Way Jose."
By Bob Dobalina
Jun 11, 2009

I sent this route... in my dreams! Looks so clean that you could eat off of it.
By Meadows
Nov 18, 2012

The new guide says this is 130 feet, has anyone lowered off this with a 70m?
By Highlander
From: Ouray, CO
Feb 22, 2013

70m works

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