Optimator 5.13-
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| Type: | Trad, 110 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13a [details] |
| FA: | Jose Pereyra |
| Submitted By: | Jeremy H on Nov 6, 2007 |
| |
Booty shorts.
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Description This route is to the far right of the wall. climb up onto a ledge to start the climb. Begin with a 20 foot right facing corner, then switch to a left facing corner for another 15 feet. Pass a few pods and try and rest before the imposing splitter above.
Protection the first corner is yellow alien.
You can fit a #1 when you switch corners.
The second corner goes from yellows alien to orange Metolius.
Place a couple .5 camalots before the pods.
Then you can place 4 .75 camalots or Red Metolius up to the bulge.
The bulge goes back to .5 camalots or red alien. through the roof.
Then you can place a few orange Metolius or Red alien to the top.
You can place 1 .75 at the top
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Nov 7, 2007
| I would suggest taking one or two green aliens for the first couple of moves in the second corner. This route is amazing...FA Steve Petro? |
By camhead
From: The Old Northwest
Dec 16, 2007
| F.A. by the late Jose Pereyra. He also has an unrepeated route north of Lake Powell, "No Way Jose." |
By Bob Dobalina
Jun 11, 2009
| I sent this route... in my dreams! Looks so clean that you could eat off of it. |
By Ron P
Nov 18, 2012
| The new guide says this is 130 feet, has anyone lowered off this with a 70m? |
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