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The Optimator
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 
90 proof T 
Annunaki T 
Backside Luge T 
Baroque T 
Beer Run T 
Bow Flex T 
Brodie Machine T 
Casey's Route T 
Charlie's Pillar T 
Chick Flick T 
Choss Eliminate TR 
Ditch 'em T 
Double Bock T 
Gunning For Gonzo T 
Hayutake T 
Hefe Weissen T 
Jews On Crack T 
Jive Crack T 
Kitchen Sink T 
Lady Pillar T 
Long Island Iced Ted T 
Miller Genuine Draft T 
Mudslide T 
Neat T 
Optimator T 
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 
Ram Implosion Wing T 
Road Soda T 
Sardikar T 
Season of the Worm, The T 
Soul Fire T 
St. Pauli Girl T 
Two Scoops T 
Unknown T 
Unnamed 11+ T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

Type:  Trad, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Jose Pereyra
Page Views: 6,893
Submitted By: Jeremy H on Nov 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Booty shorts.


This route is to the far right of the wall. climb up onto a ledge to start the climb. Begin with a 20 foot right facing corner, then switch to a left facing corner for another 15 feet. Pass a few pods and try and rest before the imposing splitter above.


the first corner is yellow alien.
You can fit a #1 when you switch corners.
The second corner goes from yellows alien to orange Metolius.
Place a couple .5 camalots before the pods.
Then you can place 4 .75 camalots or Red Metolius up to the bulge.
The bulge goes back to .5 camalots or red alien. through the roof.
Then you can place a few orange Metolius or Red alien to the top.
You can place 1 .75 at the top

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By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Nov 7, 2007

I would suggest taking one or two green aliens for the first couple of moves in the second corner. This route is amazing...FA Steve Petro?
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Dec 16, 2007

F.A. by the late Jose Pereyra. He also has an unrepeated route north of Lake Powell, "No Way Jose."
By Bob Dobalina
Jun 11, 2009

I sent this route... in my dreams! Looks so clean that you could eat off of it.
By Ron P
Nov 18, 2012

The new guide says this is 130 feet, has anyone lowered off this with a 70m?
By Highlander
From: Ouray, CO
Feb 22, 2013

70m works