The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
The guide book describes this route as twin cracks to splitter offwidth but the offwidth is flaring, not splitter. Either way the route is fun if your into offwidths, but may be a little sandy since it doesn't get climbed much.
Location
This route is located to the left of Bunny Slope and about 15' right of the large dihedral. There is a two bolt anchor at the top with slings.
I'd give this climb a mid 11 rating. More b than a for sure. Every route at the creek is 4 stars. It does throw everything at you: OW, fingers, thin hands, big hands, etc. 60 m rope just gets you down.
The climb starts out with a 35ft. off-width section. There is a finger crack parallel to the offwidth that adds some help. Follow the line into hands/fists and then into the crux(in my opinion)bulging finger crack. Just past this you'll get a nice rest and then head into a beautiful splitter crack that goes from thin hands to hands. The end of this route is beautiful. Once at the top, you can actually see through to the other side of the crack that you've been jamming. A little spooky, but definitely worth it!
Located a few hundred feet to the left of Bunny Slope...it's the obvious crack on a massive right facing dihedral
Camalots - (1)#.5, (2)#.75, (2)#1, (2)#2, (4)old #3.5 or new #4, (2)old #4, (1)new #5. Use a runner where the crack transitions from o/w to fist crack.
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