The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Skitter up the rotten flake past a profane (yet pacifyingly solid) bolt and wiggle a couple of blue Aliens into the tips crack. From there, the crack goes through the size range. More of an endurance route than a cruxy one, but the .75 Camalot section is where I was feeling it the most (someone else needs to verify the grade). And just remember, this ain't granite (or Wingate for that matter): sew it up!
Location
This is the new route located on the east side of Church Rock. And by new, I mean in the geological sense, as in recent massive rock fall left a clean beautiful dihedral that can't be missed by any circumambulist. Descent: same as for the Regular Route.
Protection
One bolt protects the ramp at the bottom. Triple rack of cams from tips to hands, with one cupped hand and one fist-sized piece. Keep a few small pieces to belay your pard up to the ledge as there are no anchors. We used the rap "turtle" on the north end of the formation to get off, after summiting via the Regular Route.
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