The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Climb a short squeeze chimney that has a continuous crack deep within to a large sandy ledge. Next, dive into a perfect wide hands crack in a clean corner. Now its time to get busy. Grunt, cuss, and struggle your way through a slightly overhanging offwidth and deposit yourself into a tight squeeze chimney. This chimney provides an excellent no-hands rest and protects with a perfect hand crack that is just within reach. The aforementioned hand crack leads directly to two solid drilled angles that had brand new slings in March 2006.
Location
From the approach trail, branch left towards scarface. Polaris is the prominent offwidth just right of Desert Shield.
Protection
Camelots: 2-#1's, 2-#2's, 4-#3's, 4-#4's (old or new, they both fit in various places)and a couple random pieces for the start.
A 60m rope will barely get you to the ground with some very tame down-climbing. A stopper knot in the "belay" side would be prudent.
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