Here's a climber on TR. This picture really doesn...
Description
To find this climb, head left when you reach the base of the wall from the approach trail. Look for the perfect finger and thin hands crack.
Protection
Gear for me was as follows: a 1 friend, a purple camalot jr (though a 1.5 friend would have been better), 1 green camalot jr, a 2 friend, 2 red camalots, 2 2.5 friends and 2 gold camalots. If you want to sew it a bit more, bring another 2.5 friend or red camalot and/or a 1 friend. Towards the top, if you're out of hand sized, you can reach to the crack to the right and plug a 1 friend.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Dec 20, 2001 rating: 5.11
Cams 1.5"-2.5", until it gets wider at the top (take a few 3"). It is mostly 2" once you get off of the ground. THis is green camalot or purple HB (black metolius?) This climb is relentless, but is easier for people with small hands. GO FOR IT.
I haven't done many routes at IC, or many cracks at all for that matter, but this was a really cool route. The bottom of the route has three or so pods in the crack, and going from the first to the second is much harder is you're short. The hardest part for me was fighting the pump on the thin hands crack after the last pod to a block wedged into the crack. The only downfall is it seems to be the only really good route in the area.
Ooo Jared, don't know if I'd agree with you there. There's quite a few really high-quality climbs right around Scarface (Black Uhuru, Where's Carruthers, Wavy Gravy, etc.). I'd submit them, but I'm too much of a wuss to lead them and I won't submit routes I haven't led.
to find this climb, head left when you reach the base of the wall from the approach trail. Gear for me was as follows: a 1 friend, a purple camalot jr (though a 1.5 friend would have been better), 1 green camalot jr, a 2 friend, 2 red camalots, 2 2.5 friends and 2 gold camalots. If you want to sew it a bit more, bring another 2.5 friend or red camalot and/or a 1 friend. Towards the top, if you're out of hand sized, you can reach to the crack to the right and plug a 1 friend.
Obviously Jared hasn't been to the Scarface wall very often. Other than the good routes mentioned by the other person, here are just a few more: Sicilian, Columbian Hitman, Not That Funny, Desert Vaurnet (probably one of the best routes at the Creek)...shall I go on?
One of the three bolts at the anchor wiggles around in your hands. This is the center bolt with a large, rounded edge hangar. The other two bolts seem fine and are adequate for an anchor and getting off (have chains between these two).
Super route and still pumpy with a no-gear to clean top rope.
Agreed with m-earles comments. Its thin hands most of the way then widens some higher up. First 15 ft is slightly overhanging but its hard to tell from photos. It took some cool photos from the top. Will post them later.