The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Located about 20-30 ft. left of Ruby's Cafe. Begin climb in a short right facing corner using small cracks. Use extra care when climbing and placing gear here, as the rock is a little questionable. After the start move over a small roof (fingers) and climb a good crack above. Move over another small roof, then climb a reachy flared wide hands crack.
Protection
Small tcus for the start, Friends-(3)0.75, (3)1.0, (3)1.5, (1)3.5 A #3.5 Camalot works best at the top.
looks a little grungy but this is a really good route. Crux for me was the first little ring lock roof. Full rest after though. Up through another roof with tricky foot beta. Up again through flaring softer sandstone. Take a new #4 camalot or equivalent and lots of gear in the 1" range.
Varied climbing that is better and harder than it looks. Got is second try leading yo-yo style. My first time trying the yo-yo. Fun climb and a cool style.
CL
By Jay van Sam From: Denver CO Oct 15, 2009 rating: 5.11
I think this route is awesome. Fun climbing and movement throughout, with lots of variations from thin fingers to large fists. Climbs a little sport-ish, due to the amount of face holds you can use, but the moves are great and mixes it up a little from the endless splitters all around you. Cool route, recommended (especially for your friends who can't crack climb lol)
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