Located about 20-30 ft. left of Ruby's Cafe. Begin climb in a short right facing corner using small cracks. Use extra care when climbing and placing gear here, as the rock is a little questionable. After the start move over a small roof (fingers) and climb a good crack above. Move over another small roof, then climb a reachy flared wide hands crack.
Protection
Small tcus for the start, Friends-(3)0.75, (3)1.0, (3)1.5, (1)3.5 A #3.5 Camalot works best at the top.
looks a little grungy but this is a really good route. Crux for me was the first little ring lock roof. Full rest after though. Up through another roof with tricky foot beta. Up again through flaring softer sandstone. Take a new #4 camalot or equivalent and lots of gear in the 1" range.
Varied climbing that is better and harder than it looks. Got is second try leading yo-yo style. My first time trying the yo-yo. Fun climb and a cool style.
Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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