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Hijinx in the Desert 

5.11

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11b/c [details]
Length: 80 feet
Views: 408 page views

Submitted By: WiledHorse on Sep 29, 2007


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Some cliffs are occasionally closed due to raptor nesting. 14-day camping limit. MORE INFO >>>

Chris Trudeau 11.9.08


Description 

Just plain awesome. Hijinx is an apparently overlooked line just left of Dusty Trails. This is possibly due to Bloom's description as "fingers to thin hands in right facing offset". Well, he didnt mention a small roof to pull around as you are changing corners.

Begin from a small shelf at the base with wide fingers (#1 FR and #.5 Cam) to a few ringlocks (#.75 Cam). good hands lead to tight hands (#1 Cams)in the right facing corner (a few good rests), leading up to the roof. Pull around on good hands (#2Cam) into a tight left facing V-Slot corner with tight hands (SlotMachine-esque). I thought this was the crux, although I actually chimneyed/kneebarred the V-Slot for the final 20 feet leading to the anchors past the wide ringlocks(more #75s).


Location 

about 30 feet left of Dusty Trails. You will see the obvious V-Slot corner at the top after the roof.


Protection 

something like:
(1) #.4 Cam
(1) #.5 Cam
(4) #.75 Cams
(5) #1 Cams
(3) #2 Cams



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By Tavis Ricksecker
From: flagstaff, az
Apr 14, 2009

Wow.. The guidebook calls this 11- now.. What a sandbag! The move around the lip of the roof seemed way harder than anything on any 11- anywhere, crazy knee bar beta and whatnot. Anyone know where to find the route "1. Unnamed 5.12 Hands out a roof to off fingers in a left facing corner"? A description that also fits Hijinx. Hmmm... We only found one route that fit that description. What gives?

By Clayton Laramie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 9, 2009

agree. this roof is really tricky. no way it is 11-. I saw the potential knee bar after I blew it but still didn't use it. hiked my feet in the overhanging crack and just wrenched down on the jams above the roof. tough to grade due to the trickery but harder than 11-

By carl bullock
From: slc, ut
Nov 18, 2009

yup. hard! odd roof for the creek. worthy!