BETA PHOTO: Getting worked. . . Big Guy is the wide crack. . ....
Description
Gorgeous splitter offwidth. Laser cut.
Location
Far right side of the scarface wall. Between torque wrench and wavy gravy.
Protection
The crack starts up pretty high. I scramble the first 40 feet or so up a slabby handcrack (you can walk or bump a #2 or 3 camalot. just don't leave it there) up to a ledge.
From there here is my rack. In order. In Camalot. .75 (green) 1 (red) 2 (gold) 3 3 4 (new 4) 4 (old 4) 4.5 (old size) 5 (new size) 6 (new size)
that should cover you good enough. pretty much just 2 of each size #3 and bigger and you are good. of course more cams if you might have to go for teh C1 ascent.
This is one wicked-bad route. Totally Bitchin'. I don't recall ever working so hard for an onsight (or anything else for that matter). I had to stop twice near the top to try to puke, but alas, nothing came up, so i kept on truckin' in a true blue-collar style. To call this climb sustained would be an offensive understatement. It's one of those climbs where no one move is harder than 10+, but EVERY move is 10+, and the fucker is 120' long! And apparently there is more, a higher set of anchors for the intrepid and sadistic few. Well shit in a bag and punch it! Who would want to keep going? It looks broken and burly above the first anchors, but whatever gets your rocks off, right? It is a great pitch to refine OW technique on as there is pretty much only one way to climb the thing efficiently (hand fist stacks). Oh and Danny, I feel your pain with the rope, there is kind of no way to avoid it, but you can make it better by shoving your larger cams WAY back in there (almost as far as you can reach), don't worry, you will get them back.
Scarface
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