The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
BETA PHOTO: Getting worked. . . Big Guy is the wide crack. . ....
Description
Gorgeous splitter offwidth. Laser cut.
Location
Far right side of the scarface wall. Between torque wrench and wavy gravy.
Protection
The crack starts up pretty high. I scramble the first 40 feet or so up a slabby handcrack (you can walk or bump a #2 or 3 camalot. just don't leave it there) up to a ledge.
From there here is my rack. In order. In Camalot. .75 (green) 1 (red) 2 (gold) 3 3 4 (new 4) 4 (old 4) 4.5 (old size) 5 (new size) 6 (new size)
that should cover you good enough. pretty much just 2 of each size #3 and bigger and you are good. of course more cams if you might have to go for teh C1 ascent.
This is one wicked-bad route. Totally Bitchin'. I don't recall ever working so hard for an onsight (or anything else for that matter). I had to stop twice near the top to try to puke, but alas, nothing came up, so i kept on truckin' in a true blue-collar style. To call this climb sustained would be an offensive understatement. It's one of those climbs where no one move is harder than 10+, but EVERY move is 10+, and the fucker is 120' long! And apparently there is more, a higher set of anchors for the intrepid and sadistic few. Well shit in a bag and punch it! Who would want to keep going? It looks broken and burly above the first anchors, but whatever gets your rocks off, right? It is a great pitch to refine OW technique on as there is pretty much only one way to climb the thing efficiently (hand fist stacks). Oh and Danny, I feel your pain with the rope, there is kind of no way to avoid it, but you can make it better by shoving your larger cams WAY back in there (almost as far as you can reach), don't worry, you will get them back.
I think the best way to minimize the rope fiasco would be to attach a long runner to the cam you are placing/walking. This way you can place it above your head without pulling any rope up. It would also be feasible to place gear behind you. That way you wouldn't have to worry about passing and kicking your already tipped out cam. All this is theoretical of course since I thrashed and grunted my way up it the same way everyone else probably does.
Definitely runner your pieces and push them back- rope runs great that way. At the creek we always talk about the size dependence of the grade but it's always hand or finger size. This one is all about your knee size! I have big knees relative to my handstacks and probably had to go 15 or more feet higher than my friends before I could slot it in. I will climb this again!
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Apr 23, 2009 rating: 5.11+
Really hard for those with smaller hands, feet and knees. It was too big to even butterfly or fist-stack up high & too big for my small knees.
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